Why go to Peru
Peru packs in more than almost any country its size. You get a Pacific coast with some of the best food in the Americas, Andean towns where Quechua is still the everyday language, a desert crossed by lines nobody has fully explained, and a slice of Amazon rainforest. Machu Picchu is the reason most people book the flight. It is rarely the reason they remember the trip.
It is also a country that rewards slow travel and punishes cramming. Distances are big, altitude is real, and the best moments tend to be small: a bowl of soup in a market at 8 a.m., a quiet ridge above Ollantaytambo, a fisherman's boat leaving at dawn.
What to see in Peru
- Machu Picchu. Yes, it lives up to the photos. Tickets are sold for timed entry and sell out in high season, so book well ahead. The first slot of the morning and the last hours of the afternoon are the calmest.
- Cusco. The old Inca capital sits at about 3,400 m, with Inca stonework under Spanish churches. Walk up through San Blas, visit Qorikancha, and give yourself a full day just to adjust to the altitude.
- The Sacred Valley. Pisac, Ollantaytambo and the terraces of Moray and the salt pans of Maras are the classic stops. Ollantaytambo is the best base, a living Inca town with a fortress above it.
- Lima's historic centre and coast. The Plaza Mayor, the San Francisco convent catacombs and the cliff-top paths of Miraflores and Barranco show a city that is more interesting than its grey reputation.
- Arequipa and the Colca Canyon. A white-volcanic-stone city under the cone of El Misti, with the Santa Catalina monastery as its centrepiece. From here, a tour or trek reaches Colca Canyon, where condors ride the morning thermals.
- Lake Titicaca. Based in Puno, you can visit the floating reed islands of the Uros and the stepped island of Taquile. It is touristy, but the light at 3,800 m is extraordinary.
- Paracas and the Ballestas Islands. A boat trip from the coast brings sea lions, Humboldt penguins and thousands of seabirds, within easy reach of Lima.
- Huacachina and the Nazca Lines. A dune-ringed oasis near Ica, and the geoglyphs further south, best seen on a short flight. Both are quick stops rather than destinations.
- Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. For hikers, the turquoise Laguna 69 and the high-mountain scenery are the best in the country.
- The Amazon near Puerto Maldonado. Lodges along the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers offer macaw clay licks and night walks without the hassle of reaching Iquitos.
Things to do
Hike. The Inca Trail needs a permit booked months ahead and closes each February. The Salkantay and Lares routes are alternatives, and Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) is a hard, very high day trip. Take a cooking class in Lima or Cusco, where you learn to make ceviche and lomo saltado properly. Ride the scenic train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. Paraglide off the Miraflores cliffs for a view of the Pacific. Sandboard in Huacachina. Spend an afternoon at a textile cooperative near Chinchero, where women show natural dyeing with cochineal and plants.
How many days and a suggested route
Ten days is the sweet spot for a first visit. Seven works if you stick to Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu. Two weeks lets you add Arequipa or Titicaca without rushing.
- Days 1-2: Lima. Miraflores, Barranco, the historic centre, a long lunch.
- Days 3-4: Fly to Cusco. Take it easy on day one, explore the old town on day two.
- Days 5-6: Sacred Valley, sleeping in Ollantaytambo.
- Day 7: Train to Aguas Calientes, then Machu Picchu early the next morning.
- Days 8-9: Back to Cusco, then fly to Arequipa for the colonial centre, or on to Puno for the lake.
- Day 10: Return to Lima for your flight home.
When to go
The Andes have two seasons. The dry season, roughly May to September, brings clear skies, cold nights and the biggest crowds, with July and August the busiest. The wet season, November to March, brings green hillsides and afternoon downpours, and some trails shut in February. April and October are good compromises.
Lima is its own case. From December to April it is warm and sunny, which makes it beach season. From about June to November a low grey blanket called the garúa hangs over the city, humid and cool, though never miserable. The Amazon is hot and humid year round, with the heaviest rain between December and April. For trekking in Huaraz, aim for the dry months.
Where to stay
In Lima, Miraflores is the easiest for first-timers: safe, walkable and full of restaurants. Barranco is more bohemian, with street art, bars and a younger crowd. The historic centre has atmosphere by day, but it feels quieter at night.
In Cusco, San Blas has the best character, with steep lanes and craft shops, while streets near the Plaza de Armas are convenient but louder. For the Sacred Valley, choose Ollantaytambo for logistics or Urubamba for comfort and more spread-out lodges. In Arequipa, the streets around the Plaza de Armas and the San Lázaro district are handy.
- Budget: hostels and simple guesthouses, roughly 10 to 25 USD for a dorm or basic private room.
- Mid-range: boutique hotels with breakfast, typically 50 to 120 USD a night.
- Splurge: converted haciendas and top lodges in the Sacred Valley, and luxury hotels near the Machu Picchu entrance, from about 250 USD and well beyond.
What to eat and where
Start with ceviche, raw fish cured in lime with chilli and red onion, eaten at lunch, not dinner, and best at a simple cevichería. Lomo saltado is a stir-fry of beef, onions, tomatoes and chips, showing the Chinese influence that also gave Lima its chifa restaurants. Try ají de gallina, a creamy chilli chicken stew, causa, a cold potato terrine, and anticuchos, grilled beef heart skewers from street grills at night.
In Arequipa, look for rocoto relleno, a stuffed spicy pepper, in a traditional picantería. In the highlands, cuy (guinea pig) is a ceremonial dish many travellers try once. Pollo a la brasa, charcoal-roast chicken with green sauce, is the everyday national favourite.
For fine dining, Lima has restaurants such as Central in Barranco and Maido in Miraflores that regularly appear on world lists, so book far ahead. For the opposite end, eat a set lunch (menú) for a few soles at a market counter, and try chicha morada (purple corn drink), Inca Kola and a pisco sour.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Lima's Jorge Chávez airport is in Callao, roughly 45 minutes to over an hour from Miraflores depending on traffic. Use the airport's official taxi desks or a ride-hailing app such as Uber or Cabify, and avoid unmarked cars. Cusco's airport is close to the centre, around 15 to 20 minutes by taxi.
Within Lima, the Metropolitano bus line is useful on the north-south corridor and apps are cheap and practical. Between regions, flying saves days: Lima to Cusco takes about an hour and a half. Long-distance buses by companies like Cruz del Sur and Oltursa are comfortable on the coast, but Andean routes are slow and winding. To reach Machu Picchu, take PeruRail or Inca Rail from Ollantaytambo or Cusco to Aguas Calientes, then a shuttle bus up, or walk.
Rough daily budget
- Shoestring: about 40 to 60 USD, with hostels, set lunches and local buses.
- Comfortable: about 100 to 160 USD, with decent hotels, good restaurants and the occasional tour.
- Generous: 250 USD and up, with boutique stays, trains and private guides.
Machu Picchu entry, the train and the shuttle together are often the biggest single expense, so plan for them separately.
FAQs
Do I need a visa for Peru?
Many nationalities, including most of Europe, North America and Latin America, can enter without a visa for tourist stays, but rules change, so check your own passport before booking.
How do I handle altitude sickness?
Spend your first day in Cusco doing little, drink water, go easy on alcohol and eat light. Coca tea helps some people. If headaches or nausea get severe, descend and see a doctor.
Is Peru safe for tourists?
Mostly yes, with normal city caution. Petty theft is the main risk in crowded places, so keep phones out of sight, use registered taxis or apps at night and avoid isolated areas.
Can I visit Machu Picchu without a tour?
Yes. Buy your ticket and train separately, then explore on your own. A guide is still worth it for the history, and some circuits require one.
What currency should I carry?
Peruvian soles. Cards work in hotels and bigger restaurants, but carry cash for markets, taxis and small towns. ATMs are plentiful in cities.
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026