Why go to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires feels like a European capital that drifted south and picked up a stronger personality on the way. The boulevards are Parisian and the cafés are Madrid-ish, but the late dinners, the arguments about football and the sheer volume of beef are entirely porteño. It is a big, loud, walkable city that rewards slow days and long nights.
It is also good value for most travellers from Europe and North America, even though prices swing with the economy. You can eat very well, see a world-class opera house from the cheap seats and still have money left for a good Malbec.
What to see in Buenos Aires
Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada
The political heart of the country. The pink presidential palace sits at one end, the Catedral Metropolitana at the other. Come on a Thursday afternoon and you may see the Madres de Plaza de Mayo still marching, as they have for decades.
Recoleta Cemetery
A city of marble mausoleums with cats sleeping on the roofs. Evita is buried in the Duarte family tomb, and visitors queue to find it. The surrounding streets and the Sunday craft fair are pleasant too.
San Telmo
Cobbles, old balconies and antique shops. The Sunday Feria de San Telmo along Calle Defensa is crowded but fun. On a weekday morning the neighbourhood is far calmer, and the Mercado de San Telmo is a good place for coffee.
La Boca and Caminito
The painted tin houses are touristy, and I will not pretend otherwise. Go in the morning, stay on Caminito and the main streets, and take a taxi in and out. If a match is on, the Bombonera stadium is the real draw.
Teatro Colón
One of the great opera houses of the world. Even if you do not see a performance, the guided tour of the horseshoe hall and the workshops is worth the ticket.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
A former theatre turned bookshop on Avenida Santa Fe, with stage, balconies and a café where the old stage was. Go early to dodge the photo crowd.
Palacio Barolo and Avenida de Mayo
The Barolo is an eccentric early-20th-century office building inspired by Dante, and the rooftop views at sunset are excellent. Nearby, Café Tortoni is the city's most famous café, touristy but undeniably atmospheric.
Palermo
The largest and most varied barrio. Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood have the bars, boutiques and restaurants. The Bosques de Palermo have lakes, rose gardens and the Floralis Genérica steel flower. MALBA, the Latin American art museum, is close by.
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
A wetland reserve a few steps from the glass towers of Puerto Madero. It is a good place to walk, cycle and escape the noise, and it is best on a clear weekday morning.
Things to do
- Tango, the right way. A big dinner show is polished and pricey. For something realer, join a milonga, such as the ones at Salón Canning or La Catedral, and watch before you try. Beginners' classes usually start the evening.
- Football. Boca at La Bombonera and River at El Monumental are the big ones. Tickets for foreigners usually come through tours or agencies, so book ahead.
- Day trip to Tigre. A train and a boat through the delta channels, with a market and a slow lunch. Easy and relaxed.
- Ferry to Colonia del Sacramento. About an hour on the fast boat to Uruguay, with a cobbled old town and a good place to watch the sunset.
- Feria de Mataderos. On Sundays, gaucho crafts, folk music and empanadas on the city's western edge.
How many days and a suggested route
Three days gives you the highlights, and four is the sweet spot. With five or six you can add Tigre or Colonia and still have slow mornings.
Day 1: Plaza de Mayo, Avenida de Mayo, Café Tortoni, Palacio Barolo, then San Telmo for the evening.
Day 2: Recoleta Cemetery, a walk through Recoleta and the Ateneo bookshop, Teatro Colón tour, then dinner in Palermo.
Day 3: Palermo parks and MALBA, a leisurely afternoon in Soho, and a milonga at night.
Day 4: La Boca in the morning, then Puerto Madero and the Costanera Sur reserve. Or swap in Tigre or Colonia.
When to go
Remember that the seasons are reversed. Spring (September to November) is the best time, with mild days and jacarandas in flower around November. Autumn (March to May) is nearly as good. Summer (December to February) is hot, sticky and sometimes stormy, and many locals leave town in January. Winter (June to August) is cool and grey but rarely freezing, and it is a fine time for theatre, cafés and cheaper flights. Rain can arrive in any month.
Where to stay
- Palermo (Soho and Hollywood): the best all-round base for restaurants and nightlife. Mid-range boutique hotels and good hostels.
- Recoleta: elegant, quiet and safe-feeling, good for a first visit and for hotels with a bit more polish.
- San Telmo: atmospheric and cheaper, with lots of hostels and guesthouses. Evenings can be quiet on some streets, so take a taxi late.
- Retiro and the Microcentro: convenient for transport, but dead at weekends. Fine for a short stay.
- Puerto Madero: modern, expensive and a bit sterile. Pick it only for the waterfront and the big hotels.
- Villa Crespo and Chacarita: cheaper than Palermo, with a local feel and a fast-growing bar scene.
What to eat and where
Start with the parrilla. Order a bife de chorizo or ojo de bife, with a provoleta (grilled cheese) first. Don Julio in Palermo is the famous name and needs a reservation. A neighbourhood parrilla will often be cheaper and just as satisfying.
Empanadas are everywhere, and the fillings vary from beef to humita (sweet corn). Pizza is a serious matter here. Try a fugazzeta, stuffed with cheese and onions, at a classic spot like El Cuartito. Add milanesa (breaded cutlet) and choripán from a street stall.
For breakfast, order medialunas with a cortado. For dessert, have ice cream (Italian-style, with dulce de leche in every flavour you can imagine) and an alfajor for the road. Dinner starts late, usually after 9 pm, and restaurants are often half empty before then.
Getting from the airport and getting around
International flights mostly land at Ezeiza (EZE), about 35 km from the centre. Official taxi and remise desks in arrivals sell fixed-fare rides, and shuttle buses run to the centre at a lower price. Allow around an hour, more at rush hour. Ride-hailing apps work too, but pickups at the airport can be awkward. Aeroparque (AEP), mostly for domestic flights, is right in the city and a short taxi ride from Palermo or the centre.
In town, the Subte (lines A to H) is cheap and handy for the centre, but it does not reach everywhere. Buses (colectivos) cover the rest and run all night on some routes. Both use the SUBE card, which you can buy at kiosks and some stations. Taxis (black and yellow) are plentiful and cheap by European standards. Use the meter and ask for a receipt. Walking is the best way to link the neighbourhoods in the middle.
Rough daily budget
Figures change with the exchange rate, so treat them as approximate and check current rates before you go.
- Budget: roughly 40 to 60 USD a day, with a hostel dorm, empanadas and pizza, and public transport.
- Mid-range: roughly 90 to 150 USD, with a nice hotel, parrilla dinners and the odd show or tour.
- Comfortable: 200 USD and up for upscale hotels, tasting menus and private transfers.
Ask locally how best to pay, as card and cash rates can differ. A mix of cash and a foreign card is usually the safest approach.
FAQs
Is Buenos Aires safe?
Mostly yes, with the usual big-city caution. Phone and bag snatching are the main problems, so keep your phone out of sight on the street and avoid empty streets late at night.
Do I need a visa?
Many nationalities, including most of Europe and North America, can enter as tourists without a visa for a limited stay. Rules change, so check your government's travel advice and Argentina's official entry requirements before you book.
How much should I tip?
About 10 percent in restaurants is normal when service is not included. Round up taxi fares if you like.
Do people speak English?
In hotels and tourist spots, often enough. Elsewhere, a few Spanish phrases go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.
What is the best day trip?
Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay if you want a change of country and old-world charm. Tigre if you want something quick, green and cheap.
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026