Why go to the Maldives
Because the water really does look like that. Around 1,190 islands are spread across 26 atolls, and almost all the space is sea. Visibility is often 20 metres or more, and you can snorkel straight off a beach and meet turtles, reef sharks and rays before breakfast.
The old idea that the Maldives means a £1,000-a-night villa is out of date. Since 2009, locals have been allowed to run guesthouses on inhabited islands. That opened the country to people with a mid-range budget, as long as they accept a few house rules: it is a Muslim country, alcohol is for resorts and boats, and bikinis stay on designated beaches.
What to see: eight places worth the boat ride
- Malé, the capital. One of the most densely packed cities on earth, and you can walk across it in under an hour. The Friday Mosque (Hukuru Miskiy), built from carved coral stone, is the one building to see. Go on a weekday morning.
- Malé fish market. Go around mid-morning, when the tuna boats have unloaded and men are gutting fish on the quayside. It's loud, smelly and honest. The produce market next door sells bananas, breadfruit and chillies.
- Maafushi. The island that started the guesthouse boom. It's easy to reach, has a dozen dive and snorkel operators and a bikini beach, and it's not pretty in the postcard sense. It is practical, though, and good for a first stay.
- Dhigurah, South Ari Atoll. A long, thin island with a sandbar at one end. Whale sharks are seen here nearly all year, which makes it one of the more reliable places in the world to swim with them.
- Hanifaru Bay, Baa Atoll. A protected UNESCO biosphere site where manta rays gather to feed, mostly between May and November. Visitor numbers are controlled and there is no diving, only snorkelling with a permit.
- Ukulhas and Mathiveri, North Ari Atoll. Smaller, calmer local islands with sandy lanes, a good house reef and few other visitors. Ukulhas also has a strong recycling culture.
- Vaadhoo, Raa Atoll. Famous for glowing plankton on the shore at night. It's unpredictable, so treat it as a bonus rather than a reason to travel.
- Fuvahmulah and Addu Atoll. Far south, close to the equator, and much less visited. Fuvahmulah is known for tiger sharks and Addu for its causeway-linked islands, WWII history and cycling.
Things to do
Snorkelling is the baseline, and a house reef is worth choosing a guesthouse for. Diving is the big draw: channels like Maaya Thila and Fish Head in Ari Atoll have sharks and big schools of fish, but strong currents mean you want some experience. Beginners can do an introductory course in calm water.
Sandbank picnics are a staple of local island tours. A boat drops you on a strip of sand with grilled fish and not much else. Sunset dolphin cruises are cheap and often succeed. If you want a different pace, hire a bicycle on a bigger island or sit in a tea shop and watch the boats come in.
Fishing trips are another good option. Tuna and trevally are common catches, and many crews will cook your fish ashore or hand it to your guesthouse.
How many days and a suggested route
Five to seven nights is the sweet spot. Less than four and you spend the trip in transit. More than ten and a local-island trip starts to feel repetitive unless you are diving a lot.
A simple route for a week: land at Velana, then take a speedboat or ferry to Maafushi or a similar island for three nights. Move on to a second island in Ari or Baa Atoll for three or four nights, with a whale shark or manta day trip. Return to Malé or Hulhumalé the night before your flight out, because ferry delays and a missed flight are not a good mix.
If you want one resort night as a treat, book it at the end of the trip when you have seen what you like.
When to go
Temperatures hover around 27 to 32°C all year. What changes is the rain and the wind.
- December to April: the dry northeast monsoon. Calm seas, blue skies, the highest prices and the most crowds.
- May to November: the wetter southwest monsoon. Expect showers, wind and some choppy crossings, but cheaper rooms and plankton-rich water that brings mantas to Baa Atoll.
February and March are the driest. Shoulder months like April, May and November are a fair compromise. If you get seasick, pick the dry season and book speedboats over long ferry rides.
Where to stay
Budget: local-island guesthouses
Expect roughly 50 to 120 USD a night for a clean double, often with breakfast. Maafushi, Ukulhas, Thulusdhoo and Dhigurah are the usual choices. You'll share the island with residents, so dress modestly in the village.
Mid-range: boutique guesthouses and small hotels
Around 120 to 250 USD buys a better room, a good restaurant and sometimes a private beach area. Hulhumalé suits one night near the airport, and it has a long city beach.
Luxury: resorts
Overwater villas typically start in the low hundreds per night and rise a long way from there. Transfers by seaplane or speedboat can add hundreds more, so check what's included before you compare prices.
What to eat and where
Fish is the backbone of Maldivian cooking, usually tuna. Start with mas huni, shredded smoked tuna with coconut, onion and chilli, scooped up with flatbread (roshi). Garudhiya is a clear tuna broth served with rice, lime and chilli, and it's better than it sounds.
Look for short eats (hedhikaa) at tea shops in the late afternoon: bis keemiya (a tuna and cabbage pastry), fish cutlets and fried dough balls with sweet black tea. Try kandu kukulhu (tuna curry) at a local café, where a plate costs a few dollars.
On local islands, small cafés and your guesthouse's kitchen are the main options. Ask for the catch of the day. Resort dining is high-quality and priced to match, with imported ingredients, so budget accordingly.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Velana International Airport sits on its own island, Hulhulé, next to Malé. A short dhoni ferry runs from the airport jetty to Malé for a small fare. Taxis and buses link the airport to Hulhumalé, and a bridge connects the airport island to the capital.
Between islands you have four options:
- Public ferries: cheap, often a few dollars, but slow and timetabled around the day. Good for Maafushi and nearby islands.
- Speedboats: faster and more flexible, commonly 25 to 60 USD per person depending on distance. Guesthouses will arrange them.
- Domestic flights: useful for the far north and south, followed by a short boat transfer.
- Seaplanes: mainly for resorts. They fly in daylight only, so late arrivals sometimes need a night in Malé or Hulhumalé.
Always confirm the boat or plane timing around your flight home. Leave a buffer of at least a night for far atolls.
Rough daily budget
- Local island, shoestring: about 80 to 120 USD a day, including a guesthouse, meals and an occasional snorkel trip.
- Mid-range: 150 to 250 USD, with better rooms, excursions and boat transfers.
- Resort: 400 USD a day and upward per person, before extras.
Government taxes, a per-night green tax and service charges are added to most bills. Excursions and diving usually cost extra, so ask before you book.
FAQs
Do I need a visa?
Most visitors receive a free 30-day tourist visa on arrival. You need a valid passport, a confirmed booking and an onward ticket. Check the latest rules before travelling.
Can I drink alcohol on a local island?
Not legally. Alcohol is limited to resorts and some safari boats. Bringing it into the country is also restricted.
Is a local island a poor substitute for a resort?
No, just a different trip. You get the same reefs and sea, plus real meals and people. You give up private islands and bars.
What currency should I bring?
The local currency is the rufiyaa, but US dollars are widely accepted for tourist services. Cards work in most guesthouses, though cash helps on small islands.
Is it safe to swim and snorkel?
Generally yes in lagoons, but currents can be strong outside them. Use a guide for channel dives, wear a rash vest for sun and never touch the coral.
Photo: Nattu from Male', Maldives · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026