Why go to Seoul
Seoul is one of the few huge cities that is easy to enjoy. The subway is spotless and runs everywhere, food is cheap and excellent at every level, and you can walk from a 600-year-old palace to a neon alley of karaoke rooms in twenty minutes. Mountains rise inside the city limits, so even a hazy day ends with a ridge walk and a bowl of something hot.
It is also a good value after the flight. Meals, transport and entry fees cost far less than in Tokyo or most of Western Europe, which is why flight deals to Incheon are worth jumping on.
What to see in Seoul
- Gyeongbokgung Palace. The grandest of the royal palaces. Be there at opening time for the guard ceremony and empty courtyards. It is closed on Tuesdays. Wearing a hanbok gets you in free, though the rental shops outside are touristy.
- Changdeokgung and its Secret Garden. Less grand than Gyeongbokgung but more beautiful, with buildings that follow the hillside. The garden (Huwon) is visited by guided tour only, so book ahead. It is closed on Mondays.
- Bukchon Hanok Village. Sloping lanes of traditional houses between the two palaces. Residents live here, so go early and keep your voice down. The top lanes give a view of tiled roofs with skyscrapers behind.
- Insadong and Ikseon-dong. Insadong has tea houses and craft shops, and it is touristy but pleasant. Ikseon-dong, a few minutes away, is a tangle of tiny hanok converted into cafes and bars, best at dusk.
- Jongmyo Shrine. A calm Confucian royal shrine with long, austere halls. It is often skipped, which is a good reason to go.
- Namsan and N Seoul Tower. Walk up from Myeongdong or Itaewon rather than taking the cable car. The tower is fine, but the real prize is the city spread out at sunset.
- Dongdaemun Design Plaza. Zaha Hadid's curved silver building. It is striking at night, when the surrounding fabric markets are still working.
- Gwangjang Market. One of the best places in the city to eat, covered in more detail below.
- Starfield Library at COEX. Towering shelves in a shopping mall. It is free and photographed constantly, so go on a weekday morning.
- Naksan Park and the Seoul City Wall. A short walk along the old fortress wall with great views and almost no crowds. Go at sunset.
Things to do
Spend an afternoon in Seongsu-dong, a former factory district full of coffee roasters, concept shops and pop-up stores. Hongdae is the place for street performers, live music and late nights near the university. Itaewon has international bars and some of the best views from its hillside lanes.
Do a picnic on the Han River. Buy ramyeon from a convenience store, cook it in the machines at Banpo or Yeouido parks, and order fried chicken to your blanket (chimaek, chicken and beer). The Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain show runs in the evenings in warm months.
For a half day out of the centre, hike part of Bukhansan or the easier Inwangsan, which sits right behind the palace. A trip to the DMZ is possible by organised tour only, and it needs advance booking and a passport. Finish a night at a noraebang (private karaoke room) with friends. It is a Seoul rite of passage.
How many days and a suggested route
Four days covers the highlights. Five lets you slow down and add a day trip. Three is a sprint, but it works if you skip the DMZ.
- Day 1: Gyeongbokgung at opening, Bukchon, Insadong, then dinner in Ikseon-dong.
- Day 2: Changdeokgung and Huwon, Gwangjang Market for lunch, Dongdaemun Design Plaza at dusk.
- Day 3: Walk up Namsan in the morning, Myeongdong for street food, Itaewon at night.
- Day 4: Seongsu-dong for cafes and shops, then Hongdae in the evening.
- Day 5: Bukhansan or a DMZ tour, or COEX and the Lotte World Tower area for a skyline view.
When to go
Spring (April to May) brings cherry blossom, usually early April, and mild days. It is lovely and busy. Autumn (late September to early November) is my favourite: clear skies, cool air and ginkgo trees turning yellow around the palaces.
Summer is hot and humid, with a rainy season (jangma) from late June into July. Heavy downpours are common, but museums and malls are well air-conditioned. Winter is cold and dry, often below freezing, and sometimes much lower. The upside is heated floors in hotels, hot street snacks and few tourists. Lunar New Year and Chuseok close many shops and restaurants for a few days, and transport is crowded, so check dates.
Where to stay in Seoul
- Myeongdong and Jung-gu: central, easy for the airport train and subway lines. A good first-timer choice, but loud and commercial.
- Jongno, Insadong and Bukchon: best for the palaces and a more traditional feel. Hanok guesthouses here are a treat for one night.
- Hongdae: young, lively and good for nightlife. Direct airport train access makes it very convenient.
- Itaewon and Hannam: international and relaxed. Good for longer stays and eating variety.
- Seongsu: trendy and less touristy, with a few boutique options.
As a rough guide, a hostel bed or small guesthouse room costs about 25 to 45 USD, a decent mid-range hotel 80 to 140 USD, and top hotels start around 200 USD. Rooms are small everywhere, so don't expect space.
What to eat and where
Start at Gwangjang Market. Order bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), mayak gimbap (small rolls) and yukhoe (seasoned raw beef) if you're adventurous. Sit at a stall counter, point and smile. Tongin Market near Gyeongbokgung lets you fill a tray with small dishes using brass coins.
For barbecue, look for samgyeopsal (pork belly) grilled at your table with lettuce, garlic and ssamjang. Most places want two portions minimum. Other dishes worth finding: kimchi jjigae stew, bibimbap, naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles, great in summer), samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) and gukbap (rice soup, perfect on a hungover morning). Street snacks include tteokbokki and hotteok, a sweet pancake that is best hot in winter.
Noryangjin Fish Market is good for fresh seafood: pick it downstairs, then have a restaurant upstairs cook it. A meal at a local restaurant typically costs 8 to 12 USD. Barbecue runs 15 to 30 USD per person.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Incheon International is about an hour from the centre. The AREX train has an express service to Seoul Station and an all-stop line that continues to Hongdae and beyond. Airport limousine buses reach many hotels directly and are comfortable with luggage. A taxi is quick late at night but costs several times more. Gimpo Airport, used for flights to Japan and China, is closer and connects by subway.
Inside the city, the subway is the answer. Lines are numbered and colour-coded, with announcements in English. Buy a T-money card at any convenience store, or consider Seoul's tourist transit pass if you plan to ride a lot. Fares are low, roughly 1 to 1.50 USD per ride. Skip Google Maps for directions. Naver Map or KakaoMap works much better, and taxis can be called with Kakao T. Avoid rush hour (around 8 to 9 am and 6 to 7 pm).
Rough daily budget
- Budget: around 60 to 90 USD per day (hostel, market meals, subway, a couple of paid entries).
- Mid-range: around 130 to 200 USD (comfortable hotel, restaurants, a tour or two).
- Comfortable: 250 USD and up (nicer hotel, barbecue dinners, taxis, cocktails).
Palaces cost only a few dollars to enter, and a combined ticket for the main ones is worth it. These are approximate figures, so check current rates before you travel.
FAQs
Is Seoul expensive?
Not by the standards of most major cities. Accommodation is the biggest cost. Food, transport and attractions are all affordable.
Do I need a visa?
It depends on your passport. Many nationalities can enter visa-free for short stays, but some need the K-ETA electronic travel authorisation. Check the official sources before booking.
Is English widely spoken?
Signs and subway announcements are in English, and younger people often speak some. In small restaurants you may rely on pointing and translation apps. Papago works well.
Is Seoul safe?
Very. Walking at night is generally comfortable, and petty crime is low. Take normal care with your phone in crowded areas, and watch out for scooters on pavements.
Do I need cash?
Cards are accepted almost everywhere, and T-money works for transport and in convenience stores. Carry some cash for market stalls and the occasional small shop.
Photo: Frank Schulenburg · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026