Why go to Sardinia
Sardinia never quite turned into a package-holiday cliché, even though its beaches could justify one. The water at Cala Goloritzé looks photoshopped. Inland you find Bronze Age stone towers older than Rome, shepherd villages with political murals, and a kitchen built on pigs, sheep and the sea. The island is roughly 270 km long, so pick a region or two rather than trying to see everything.
What to see in Sardinia
- Cagliari's Castello quarter: the walled hilltop old town, with the Bastione di Saint Remy for views over the port and the Molentargius lagoon, where flamingos sometimes feed. Go an hour before sunset.
- Su Nuraxi, Barumini: a UNESCO-listed nuraghe complex about an hour north of Cagliari. You visit with a guide, and it is the best way to understand the island's oldest civilisation.
- Nora: Phoenician and Roman ruins on a small headland near Pula, southwest of Cagliari. Mosaics, a theatre and a swimmable sea right beside them.
- Alghero and Capo Caccia: a walled port town with a Catalan accent in its street names and kitchens. Nearby, the Neptune's Grotto sea cave is reached by a long cliffside staircase or by boat.
- Golfo di Orosei: Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzé sit under limestone cliffs. Take a boat from Cala Gonone, or hike to Goloritzé from the Baunei side. Access is capped in summer, so book ahead.
- Gola Su Gorropu: a limestone canyon in the Supramonte mountains. Wear proper shoes, bring water, and expect a half-day walk.
- La Maddalena archipelago and Costa Smeralda: go for boat days among granite islets. Skip Porto Cervo's price tags and head for beaches like Capriccioli or Liscia Ruja. You can't swim at Budelli's Pink Beach, only look from the water.
- Bosa: pastel houses along the Temo river, the Malaspina castle above, and a slow pace that suits an evening walk. It is the prettiest small town on the west coast.
- La Pelosa, Stintino: shallow turquoise water and white sand facing an old watchtower. In summer there is a daily visitor cap and reservations are required.
Things to do
Spend a full day on a boat in the Golfo di Orosei, swimming where the road doesn't reach. Drive the Costa Verde to the Piscinas dunes, a strip of sand hills that feels closer to Namibia than Italy. Ride the narrow-gauge Trenino Verde on its summer routes, such as Mandas to Arbatax, if you like slow scenery.
In the interior, walk through Orgosolo to read its murals, then taste Cannonau wine around Mamoiada or Oliena. Back in Cagliari, do what locals do and take a late-afternoon aperitivo at Poetto beach.
How many days and a suggested route
Four days is enough for Cagliari and the south: two in the city, one at Nora and the Chia or Villasimius beaches, one at Barumini. With a week, add the east or the northwest, but not both. Ten days lets you do a loop: Cagliari, Barumini, Cala Gonone, Costa Smeralda or La Maddalena, then Alghero and Bosa.
Driving times are longer than the map suggests. A 100 km stretch on mountain roads can take two hours, and I'd rather see fewer places than live in the car.
When to go
Late May, June and September are the sweet spot: warm sea, long days, manageable crowds and fair prices. July and August bring 30-35°C heat, full ferries, booked-out beaches and rates that can double. The mistral wind can blow hard on the northwest coast at any time of year, so check the forecast before a boat day.
Swimming is comfortable from late May into October. Winter is mild, around 10-15°C, ideal for hiking and city stays, though many coastal hotels and restaurants close. The Sant'Efisio procession in Cagliari starts on 1 May, and the Barbagia carnivals in places like Mamoiada are striking if you visit in late winter.
Where to stay
- Cagliari (Castello, Marina, Stampace): best for a city base with good food and easy trains. Hostels and simple B&Bs start around 25-50 euros per night, mid-range hotels are around 90-140.
- Alghero old town: walkable, good restaurants, easy for Capo Caccia. Prices climb in summer.
- Cala Gonone: practical for boat trips and hikes in the Golfo di Orosei.
- Santa Teresa Gallura or Palau: good gateways for the far north and La Maddalena.
- Villasimius: for beach days in the southeast, family-friendly and quieter in the shoulder season.
- Agriturismi: working farms with dinner included, often 70-120 euros for two with half board. Often the best value on the island.
Costa Smeralda luxury resorts exist, but expect several hundred euros a night in high season.
What to eat and where
Start with culurgiones, pinched potato and pecorino dumplings from Ogliastra, and malloreddus, small ridged pasta served with sausage ragù. Porceddu is spit-roasted suckling pig, best eaten at an agriturismo. On the coast, fregola with clams, grilled fish and bottarga grated over spaghetti are the dishes to order. Alghero is known for lobster Catalan style.
Tear into pane carasau, the paper-thin flatbread, and finish with seadas, a fried pastry filled with cheese and drizzled with honey. Drink Cannonau red, Vermentino white, and a small glass of mirto at the end. You may hear about casu marzu, the maggot cheese. It is illegal to sell and isn't worth hunting for.
In Cagliari, walk around the Marina area for trattorie and visit the Mercato di San Benedetto in the morning. Lunch runs from about 1 pm, dinner rarely starts before 8.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Sardinia has three main airports: Cagliari-Elmas (south), Olbia Costa Smeralda (northeast) and Alghero-Fertilia (northwest). From Cagliari, a train reaches the city centre in about ten minutes. Olbia and Alghero have local buses into town, though a taxi or rental car is easier with luggage.
A car is the real answer. Trains and ARST buses link main towns, but they are slow and thin on Sundays, and they won't reach most beaches or trailheads. Book rentals early for summer. Watch for restricted traffic zones (ZTL) in historic centres and park outside them. Ferries from Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia and Naples also reach the island, useful if you want to bring your own car.
Rough daily budget
On a tight budget, expect about 60-80 euros a day with hostels, bakery lunches and buses. Mid-range travellers should plan 120-180 euros for a private room, restaurant meals and some activities. Comfortable trips run 250 euros or more. Add the car: roughly 30-100 euros a day depending on season, plus fuel and parking.
FAQs
Do I need a car in Sardinia?
Yes, for anything beyond Cagliari or Alghero. Public transport is limited and won't reach most coves and mountain areas.
What is the best month to visit?
June and September give the best balance of warm sea, good weather and fewer crowds. Late May also works well.
Which airport should I fly into?
Cagliari for the south and city culture, Olbia for the northeast and Costa Smeralda, Alghero for the northwest. Fly into one and out of another if you plan a one-way route.
Is Sardinia expensive?
It can be in July and August, especially on the coast. Outside peak season, and staying at agriturismi or eating in local trattorie, it is reasonable for Western Europe.
Can I swim at the Pink Beach on Budelli?
No. Swimming and landing are not allowed, to protect the sand. Boat tours pass nearby so you can see it from the water.
Photo: Isiwal · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026