Why go to Riga
Riga is the biggest city in the Baltics and the easiest one to like. The medieval Old Town is compact and walkable, and a few minutes away you reach one of the finest collections of Art Nouveau façades in Europe. Prices are lower than in Western Europe, though no longer rock-bottom. The food is better than its reputation, and the Baltic coast is half an hour away by train. It also works well as a cheap weekend: airBaltic uses Riga as its hub and Ryanair flies in from many cities, so fares are often low.
What to see in Riga
Old Town (Vecrīga)
Start with no plan and let the cobbles do the work. The best hour is early morning, before the cruise and stag groups arrive, when Town Hall Square and the narrow lanes around Jāņa sēta are almost empty.
Riga Cathedral (Doma)
The largest medieval church in the Baltics, with a huge organ and a calm cloister. The square outside fills with café terraces in summer and a Christmas market in December.
St. Peter's Church tower
A lift takes you up to a viewing platform at roughly 70 metres. It is the quickest way to understand the layout: the Old Town below, the Daugava river and the long flat horizon beyond.
House of the Blackheads and the Three Brothers
The Blackheads house is a 1990s reconstruction of a destroyed original, and it looks like it, but it is still photogenic. The Three Brothers on Mazā Pils iela are the oldest group of dwelling houses in town and more interesting up close.
Art Nouveau district
Walk Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela. The façades have screaming faces, sphinxes and swirling ornament, much of it by Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the film director. Go on a clear morning when the light hits the facades. The Art Nouveau Museum on Alberta iela shows an original apartment inside.
Central Market
Five former Zeppelin hangars hold meat, fish, dairy, vegetables and bread. Skip lunch elsewhere and eat here. It is cheap, loud and very local.
Freedom Monument and Bastejkalns
The Freedom Monument, nicknamed Milda, is a national symbol and an easy meeting point. Behind it, the canal and Bastejkalns park make a pleasant loop on a dry afternoon.
Academy of Sciences viewing platform
Locals call the Stalin-era tower the "birthday cake". The platform high up gives a different, less medieval view of the city, and the queue is usually shorter than at St. Peter's.
Latvian National Museum of Art
A grand building near the Old Town, good for a rainy afternoon. It is strong on Latvian painting you will not see elsewhere.
Things to do
- Browse the Saturday market at the Kalnciema Quarter, across the river in Āgenskalns, for local cheese, rye bread and street food in restored wooden courtyards.
- Take a canal boat tour in summer for an hour on the water.
- Catch an organ concert at the Cathedral or an evening at the Latvian National Opera.
- Try the craft beer bars around Miera iela and the Old Town, then sip a shot of Riga Black Balsam, the herbal liqueur every Latvian has opinions about.
- Visit the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum on Lake Ķīšezers to see old farmsteads and wooden churches set in woodland.
How many days and a suggested route
Two full days cover the highlights. Three is better, because it lets you add a day trip without rushing.
Day 1: Old Town in the morning, the Cathedral, St. Peter's tower, lunch in a cellar restaurant, then the Three Brothers and Bastejkalns.
Day 2: Art Nouveau streets in the morning, the Central Market for lunch, then the Latvian National Museum of Art or the Academy of Sciences tower at sunset.
Day 3: Take a day trip. Jūrmala, with its wooden villas and wide sandy beach, is about 30 minutes by train from Riga Central station. Sigulda and Gauja National Park, with castles and forest trails, is roughly an hour away by train. Choose the beach in summer and the forest the rest of the year.
When to go
Summer is the easy answer: long evenings, daytime highs around 20 to 23°C and terraces everywhere. The light barely fades in late June, when Jāņi (Midsummer) is celebrated with wreaths, bonfires and a mass exodus to the countryside. Expect the city to be quiet around 23 and 24 June.
May and September are my favourites. The crowds are lighter, prices drop a little and the weather is usually fine, though bring a rain jacket. Autumn gets grey and wet from October. Winter is cold, often below zero with snow, and the days are short, but the Old Town is lovely at Christmas and the cafés are warm. Just pack proper boots.
Where to stay in Riga
- Old Town: the most convenient and the most touristy. Noisy on Friday and Saturday nights. Good for a short stay, with plenty of hostels and mid-range hotels.
- Centrs (Art Nouveau district): quieter, still walkable, and usually better value. My default choice for most travellers.
- Miera iela and Čaka iela: a short tram ride from the centre, with independent cafés, bars and a more local feel.
- Āgenskalns: across the river, calm and residential, with wooden houses. Best if you want to feel like a resident and don't mind a tram ride.
Budget travellers can find dorm beds from about €15 to €30. Mid-range hotels and apartments usually run €70 to €120 a night, and prices rise in summer and at Christmas.
What to eat and where
Latvian food is hearty, built around rye bread, pork, potatoes, smoked fish and dairy. Try pelēkie zirņi ar speķi, grey peas with fried bacon bits, which is simple and better than it sounds. Order rupjmaize, dense dark rye bread, and pīrāgi, small bacon-and-onion buns. In summer look for aukstā zupa, the shocking-pink cold beetroot soup with kefir, boiled egg and potatoes.
For smoked fish, go to the fish pavilion at the Central Market. For a big, cheap, traditional meal, Lido is a self-service restaurant chain with several branches around the city and an easy way to taste many dishes. Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs in the Old Town is a cellar spot with local beer, live music and a loyal crowd, and Rozengrāls is a themed medieval restaurant that is fun if you accept the theatrics. Sweet tooth? Look for Laima chocolate and sklandrausis, a rye-crusted carrot and potato pie.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Riga International Airport (RIX) is about 10 km southwest of the centre. Bus 22 runs to the city centre in around 30 minutes for a couple of euros, which is the best-value option. A taxi or ride-hailing car (Bolt works well here) costs roughly €15 to €25 and takes about 20 minutes outside rush hour.
The Old Town is walkable, and so is most of the Art Nouveau district. For anywhere else, use the trams, trolleybuses and buses run by Rīgas satiksme. Single tickets are cheap and you can buy them on board or use an e-ticket. Trains to Jūrmala and Sigulda leave from Riga Central station next to the Central Market. Scooters and bikes are easy to rent in summer.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: about €45 to €60 a day (hostel, market meals, public transport, one paid sight).
- Mid-range: about €90 to €130 (a decent hotel, restaurant dinners, a museum or two, a day trip).
- Comfortable: €180 and up (a central hotel, fine dining, taxis).
A coffee costs around €3, a beer in the Old Town €5 to €7, and a main course at a mid-range restaurant €12 to €20. Prices are approximate and change by season.
FAQs
Is Riga safe for tourists?
Yes. The usual city precautions apply, especially with pickpockets in crowded areas and drunken groups in the Old Town late on weekends.
Which currency is used?
The euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, including at market stalls and on public transport.
Is English spoken?
Widely, especially among younger people and in restaurants and hotels. Russian is also common. A "paldies" (thank you) is always appreciated.
Is Riga worth it in winter?
Yes, if you like cold weather. The Christmas market, cosy bars and low prices make it a good winter city break, but dress warmly and expect early darkness.
Do I need a car?
No. The centre is compact, public transport is good, and trains cover the main day trips to Jūrmala and Sigulda.
Photo: Diliff · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026