Why go to Lisbon
Lisbon is one of the few European capitals that still feels affordable, walkable (if you like hills) and properly lived-in. Laundry hangs over the alleys in Alfama, old men argue over football outside the café, and a glass of wine costs less than the coffee you'd buy at home. The light is the other thing. Even in February, the river and the white-and-ochre buildings catch it in a way that makes you stop and look.
It's also an easy base. Beaches, Sintra's palaces and the Arrábida coast are all a short train or drive away, so one cheap flight gets you a city break and a coastal escape.
What to see in Lisbon
Alfama and the Castelo de São Jorge
Alfama is the oldest quarter, a knot of stairs and lanes that survived the 1755 earthquake. Get lost on purpose. The castle at the top is worth the ticket for the views over the Tagus, though the walk up through the lanes is the better part of the visit.
Miradouros
Lisbon's viewpoints are a sport in themselves. Santa Luzia has the postcard view over the rooftops, Senhora do Monte has the widest panorama, and São Pedro de Alcântara is where locals go for a sunset drink. Go early or late to avoid the crowds.
Belém
The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the showpiece: Manueline stonework at its most exuberant. The Torre de Belém is smaller than you expect, so photograph it and move on. Add the MAAT museum on the waterfront if you like contemporary architecture. Take tram 15 from Praça da Figueira or the train from Cais do Sodré.
Baixa and Praça do Comércio
The grid of streets rebuilt after the earthquake ends at this huge riverside square. Walk through the Rua Augusta arch, then climb to the top for a view of the whole district.
Sé de Lisboa and the Graça side
The cathedral is a plain, fortress-like Romanesque building. Above it, Graça is quieter and has the Miradouro da Graça, a good spot for a drink with fewer tour groups.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
A tile museum sounds dry until you see a 23-metre panel of pre-earthquake Lisbon. It's in a former convent and often overlooked.
LX Factory
A former industrial complex under the 25 de Abril bridge, now full of bookshops, studios and cafés. It's touristy but fun on a weekend afternoon.
Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
One of Europe's best private collections, set in a calm garden. It's a good rainy-day choice and a pleasant break from the cobbles.
Parque das Nações and the Oceanário
This is the modern Lisbon built for Expo 98. The aquarium is excellent, especially with kids, and the riverfront promenade is flat and easy.
Things to do
- Ride a tram, but pick the time. Tram 28 is charming and also crammed and pickpocket-prone from mid-morning. Take it at 8am or skip it and walk.
- Catch live fado. Small houses in Alfama and Mouraria are more atmospheric than the big dinner shows. Keep the volume of your own conversation down; people take it seriously.
- Day trip to Sintra. Trains leave from Rossio. Pick one or two sites, such as Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira, and start early.
- Beach day at Cascais or Costa da Caparica. Cascais is a 40-minute train ride from Cais do Sodré, with a promenade that runs for kilometres.
- Bar-hop in Bairro Alto. It gets loud after 10pm, with drinks served on the street. Pica Pau and Pensão Amor are good starting points if you want something with character.
- Take a river cruise or ferry to Cacilhas. The ferry costs a couple of euros and gives you the skyline from the water, plus a seafood lunch on the other bank.
How many days and a suggested route
Three days covers the essentials. Two feels rushed, and five lets you add Sintra and Cascais without hurrying.
Day 1: Baixa, Praça do Comércio, up to Alfama on foot, the castle, Santa Luzia and dinner with fado. Day 2: Belém in the morning, a pastel de nata at the source, the LX Factory for lunch, then Bairro Alto and Chiado in the evening. Day 3: Sintra, or the Gulbenkian and Azulejo museum if you'd rather stay in town.
Wear proper shoes. The pavements, called calçada, are limestone and basalt cobbles that get very slippery in the rain.
When to go
April to June and September to October are the sweet spot: warm, bright and not yet baking. July and August hit 30 degrees or more, and the hills become hard work. Winter is mild, typically 8 to 15 degrees, with rainy spells but plenty of clear days too, and far fewer crowds.
June is festival month. On 12 and 13 June the Santo António celebrations fill Alfama with grilled sardines, basil pots and street parties. It's fun but crowded, and accommodation prices climb.
Where to stay
- Baixa and Chiado: central and flat-ish, with great transport links. A good first-timer choice, though noisy and pricier.
- Alfama and Graça: the most atmospheric, with steep climbs and little luggage space. Bring a small bag.
- Príncipe Real: elegant, with garden squares, boutiques and good restaurants. Mid-range to upmarket.
- Santos and Madragoa: quiet, local and close to Cais do Sodré, with good value for the location.
- Budget: hostels in Baixa and Bairro Alto are plentiful and often excellent. Expect around 25 to 40 euros for a dorm bed, 70 to 120 for a mid-range hotel, and 180 or more for upscale.
What to eat and where
Start with the pastel de nata. Pastéis de Belém is the original and is worth the queue, though Manteigaria in the Time Out Market or on Rua do Loreto is just as good, with less waiting. Eat it warm, with cinnamon.
For lunch, order a bifana (pork sandwich) at a counter, or the daily prato do dia at a tasca, which usually costs 8 to 12 euros with a drink. Look for bacalhau à Brás (shredded salt cod with eggs and potatoes), arroz de marisco (a soupy seafood rice) and sardinhas assadas in summer. Caldo verde, a kale and potato soup, is the comfort food of the city.
For a drink, try ginjinha, a cherry liqueur, at the tiny bars near Rossio. For dinner, avoid the menus with photos on Rua Augusta and wander into Mouraria, Campo de Ourique or Alcântara instead. The Time Out Market is convenient but more expensive and crowded than the streets around it.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Humberto Delgado airport is close to the centre. The red metro line runs from the terminal to Alameda and São Sebastião, and connects to the other lines. The trip into the centre takes about 20 minutes and costs a couple of euros plus the rechargeable card. Taxis and ride-hailing apps cost roughly 15 to 25 euros, depending on the hour and traffic.
Inside the city, a Navegante or Viva Viagem card covers the metro, buses, trams, funiculars and ferries. A 24-hour pass is good value if you're moving around a lot. The centre is compact enough to walk, but the hills are real, so use the funiculars (Glória, Bica, Lavra) and the Santa Justa lift when your legs complain. Trains to Sintra leave from Rossio, and trains to Belém and Cascais from Cais do Sodré.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: about 60 to 80 euros per day with a hostel, simple meals and public transport.
- Mid-range: about 120 to 180 euros with a decent hotel, restaurant dinners and a couple of entry fees.
- Comfortable: 250 euros or more for upscale hotels and tasting menus.
Prices are approximate and rise in summer and around big events. Drinks and public transport remain cheap by Western European standards.
FAQ
Is Lisbon safe for tourists?
Generally yes. The main risk is pickpocketing on tram 28, in crowded miradouros and around Baixa. Keep your phone and wallet close and be wary of street drug offers in Bairro Alto and Baixa.
Do I need to speak Portuguese?
No. English is widely spoken in tourist areas, and a simple "obrigado" or "obrigada" goes a long way.
Is three days enough?
Three days covers the main sights comfortably. Add a fourth for Sintra, or a fifth for Cascais and the coast.
Can I use euros and cards?
Yes, Portugal uses the euro and cards are accepted almost everywhere. Carry a few coins for small cafés and tascas.
Is Lisbon good for a winter trip?
Yes, if you accept some rain. Temperatures are mild, crowds are lighter and hotel prices drop. Bring a waterproof jacket and shoes with good grip.
Photo: NorbertNagel · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026