Why go to Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is a small limestone city wrapped in thick medieval walls, with the Adriatic on one side and a steep brown ridge on the other. The Old Town is compact, car-free and far better looking than the photos suggest. Come in July at noon and it is a crowded, sweaty tourist machine. Come at 7:30 on a May morning and you hear shutters going up and the odd cat complaining.
It is also a good base. Islands, a ferry to Mljet, the oyster beds at Ston and a day trip into Montenegro are all within easy reach. Just plan around the cruise ships, because they decide how the city feels on any given day.
What to see in Dubrovnik
- The city walls. About two kilometres of ramparts with views over terracotta roofs and the sea. Go when they open, usually 8:00 in season, before the heat and the groups. Tickets cost roughly €35 in high season, so check current prices. Allow around 90 minutes.
- Stradun. The polished limestone main street runs from Pile Gate to the Old Port. Walk it early and again after dinner, when the stone glows.
- Pile Gate and Onofrio's Large Fountain. This is the classic entrance to the Old Town. The 15th-century fountain just inside is a handy meeting point and a free source of cold drinking water.
- Rector's Palace and Sponza Palace. The first holds the city museum, and the second is a Gothic-Renaissance building that houses the state archives. Even if you skip the museum, the courtyards are worth a look.
- Franciscan Monastery. It has a quiet cloister and one of Europe's oldest continuously operating pharmacies. It is a calm place when the main street is not.
- Fort Lovrijenac. This fortress stands on a rock outside the western walls. It was a filming location for King's Landing in Game of Thrones, but the views back at the walls are the real reason to climb it.
- Mount Srđ. Take the cable car up, or hike the zigzag path if you are fit and it is not midday. Sunset is the best time, and the view is the one on every postcard.
- Lokrum island. A short boat ride from the Old Port, with pine woods, rocky swimming spots and a former Benedictine monastery. It is a decent escape for a few hours.
- The Old Port. Fishing boats, ferry touts and the best light for photos at golden hour. The sea wall is a good place to sit with an ice cream.
Things to do
Swim off the rocks below the walls. The cliff-side Buža bar is reached through a hole in the wall and is a popular spot for a cold drink over the water. Prices are higher than in town, but you are paying for the position.
Rent a sea kayak for a paddle around the walls and out to Lokrum. It is one of the best ways to see the city from below. Take a day boat to the Elaphiti Islands (Koločep, Lopud and Šipan), where Lopud has a proper sandy beach. If you like wine, go to the Pelješac peninsula for tastings of Plavac Mali, the local red, and stop at Ston for oysters and its long defensive wall.
How many days and a suggested route
Two days covers the essentials. Three is the sweet spot, because it lets you add an island or a day trip without rushing. Four or five works if you want Mljet, Cavtat or Pelješac as well.
- Day 1: Walls at opening time, then Stradun, the fountain and the Franciscan Monastery. Lunch in a side street away from the main drag. Late afternoon at Banje beach, and a drink at Buža if the sea is calm.
- Day 2: Morning ferry to Lokrum or the Elaphiti Islands. Back by late afternoon, then the cable car to Srđ for sunset.
- Day 3: Fort Lovrijenac, then a trip to Cavtat by boat or bus, or a day on Pelješac for wine and oysters.
When to go
July and August are hot, often around 28 to 32°C, with warm sea and a lot of people. The Old Town can feel packed by 10:00. If you do come then, see the sights early, swim midday and eat late.
May, June, September and early October are the best months. It is warm enough to swim, the light is lovely, and prices are lower. Winter is mild but wet, with some restaurants closed and a chance of the cold bura wind. It is quiet and cheap, but not a beach holiday.
Where to stay
Old Town
Atmospheric and expensive, with stairs everywhere and some night noise. Worth it for one or two nights if you want the early-morning streets to yourself.
Ploče
Just east of the Old Town, a short walk from Ploče Gate. Good views, a handful of upscale hotels and easy access to Banje beach.
Lapad and Babin Kuk
Residential, with beaches, promenades and plenty of mid-range hotels and apartments. A local bus gets you to the Old Town in 15 to 20 minutes. This is where I would stay for value.
Gruž
Near the ferry port and market, with cheaper guesthouses and hostels. Less pretty, but practical for island trips and well connected by bus.
As a rough guide for summer, hostels run from about €30 to €50 a night, mid-range rooms about €100 to €180, and Old Town boutique hotels well above that. Prices drop sharply outside peak months.
What to eat and where
Seafood is the main event. Try black risotto (crni rižot, made with cuttlefish ink), buzara (shrimp or mussels in garlic, wine and tomato), grilled fish by weight, and octopus salad. Ston oysters are excellent, especially with a glass of local white. For something heavier, look for peka, meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell, usually needing advance ordering. Finish with Dubrovnik rozata, a caramel flan, or fritule, small doughnut-like fritters.
Avoid places with photo menus on Stradun. Walk a couple of streets uphill or head to the Old Port. Lokanda Peskarija by the harbour is a reliable seafood spot. For coffee, Gradska kavana by the Old Port has a good terrace and plenty of local life. Away from the centre, Gruž market is the place for fruit, cheese and fig cakes, and Lapad has simpler, cheaper konobas.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is at Čilipi, about 20 km south of the city. The Platanus airport shuttle runs to Gruž and Pile Gate and costs roughly €10 to €12 one way. A taxi is faster and typically costs €35 to €50, depending on time and traffic. Agree the price or use an app before you get in.
The Old Town is pedestrian only, and you will walk a lot, including steep steps. Local Libertas buses are cheap, about €2 to €3 a ticket, and connect Pile Gate, Gruž, Ploče and Lapad. Ferries and small boats cover Lokrum and the islands. A rental car is only useful for Pelješac or the Konavle valley, and parking near the centre is a headache.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: about €70 to €100 a day with a hostel bed, bakery lunches, local buses and one paid sight.
- Mid-range: about €130 to €200 with a decent room outside the walls, restaurant dinners and a boat trip.
- Comfortable: €250 and up, with an Old Town or Ploče hotel and fish dinners with wine.
Prices are higher in July and August. Croatia uses the euro.
FAQ
Is Dubrovnik worth visiting?
Yes, especially outside peak summer. It is beautiful, easy to walk, and a good base for islands and day trips.
How many days do you need?
Three days is ideal. Two is enough for the main sights if you are short on time.
When is the best time to visit?
May, June, September and early October offer warm weather, swimmable sea and fewer crowds than July and August.
Is Dubrovnik expensive?
By Croatian standards, yes. It costs more than Split or inland Croatia, particularly for Old Town stays and restaurants. Staying in Lapad or Gruž and eating off the main street helps.
Do I need a car?
Not for the city. Buses, boats and your feet are enough. Rent one only if you plan to explore Pelješac, Konavle or beyond.
Photo: Martin Falbisoner · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026