Why go to Madeira
Madeira is a steep volcanic island in the Atlantic, closer to Morocco than to Lisbon, and it feels like nowhere else in Portugal. Mountains rise almost straight out of the sea, and old irrigation channels called levadas cut along the slopes, with footpaths beside them. The climate is mild all year, and the food is better than most people expect.
It is not a beach destination, whatever the brochures say. The coast is mostly black pebbles and cliffs. Come for walking, views, wine and fish, and you will be very happy.
What to see: the places worth your time
Funchal's Zona Velha
The old quarter around Rua de Santa Maria has painted doors, small restaurants and a few bars that fill up after dark. It is touristy, but it is still the best place to wander in the evening.
Mercado dos Lavradores
Go before 11:00, when the fish hall at the back is at its best. You will see black scabbardfish with its alarming teeth and huge tuna being cut up. Upstairs, the fruit stalls will push passion fruit and the odd-looking anona on you. Try a bit before you buy.
Monte and the Tropical Garden
The Funchal cable car climbs to Monte in about 15 minutes. The Monte Palace Tropical Garden has Asian-style terraces, ponds and tiled panels. You can come back down by cable car, or in a wicker toboggan (carro de cesto), which is kitschy but does give you a few minutes of fun.
Cabo Girão
This sea cliff is among the highest in Europe, at around 580 metres. The glass-floored skywalk is a quick stop and it does make your stomach turn. Below it, farmers still work tiny terraces by the water.
Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
This is the island's famous high-mountain walk, above the clouds, through tunnels and along exposed ridges. Pico do Arieiro is around 1,818 m and Pico Ruivo around 1,862 m. Bring a head torch for the tunnels, and check trail status before you go, as sections have closed after fires and landslides. If you only want the view, drive to Arieiro at sunrise and walk a short way along the path.
Ponta de São Lourenço
The eastern tip of the island is dry, red and windswept, unlike the green interior. The out-and-back walk follows the ridge to the sea with big views both ways. Go early, because there is almost no shade.
Porto Moniz and the north coast
The natural lava pools at Porto Moniz are fine for a swim on a calm day. Further along, Seixal has a black-sand cove and waterfalls dropping near the road. The old coast road (the ER101) is slower than the tunnels, but the views make up for it.
Santana and the laurel forest
Santana is known for its triangular thatched houses, which are a little too cute but worth a stop. Fanal, in the laurel forest, is better: old trees in the fog, with grazing cows in the clearing.
Câmara de Lobos
This fishing village sits just west of Funchal, with small boats pulled up by the harbour. Winston Churchill painted here. Stop for a poncha and watch the boats come in.
Things to do
- Levada walks: The Caldeirão Verde and 25 Fontes routes are very popular, so start early. Levada do Risco is shorter. Some popular trails charge a small fee, so check beforehand.
- Whale and dolphin trips: Boats leave from Funchal and Calheta. Choose an operator with small groups and good reviews.
- Canyoning: The São Vicente area is the usual base, with plenty of guided options.
- Blandy's Wine Lodge: A tour in central Funchal gets you through the history of Madeira wine and ends with a tasting.
- Porto Santo: A ferry connects to this separate island, famous for its long golden beach. It works as a day trip or an overnight if you want actual sand.
How many days and a suggested route
Four to five days is a good number. Three is enough if you stay near Funchal and rent a car. A week lets you slow down and add Porto Santo.
- Day 1: Funchal, with the market in the morning, Zona Velha, and dinner in the old town.
- Day 2: Monte and its garden, then Câmara de Lobos and Cabo Girão in the afternoon.
- Day 3: Pico do Arieiro at sunrise, then the Pico Ruivo trail or a milder walk if the weather is poor.
- Day 4: North coast loop: Santana, São Vicente, Seixal and Porto Moniz.
- Day 5: Ponta de São Lourenço in the morning, then an easy afternoon.
When to go
Madeira works all year because temperatures are mild. In Funchal, expect roughly 18-20°C in winter and 24-27°C in summer. The north coast and mountains are cooler, wetter and often misty, so pack layers whatever the month.
- Spring (March-May): Flowers are at their best, and the Flower Festival usually takes place around April or May.
- Summer (June-September): Best for swimming and the most settled weather, but also the busiest. The Wine Festival runs in late summer.
- Autumn: Warm sea, fewer people, and good hiking.
- Winter: More rain in the mountains, though Funchal is still pleasant. New Year's Eve fireworks over the bay are famous.
Where to stay
Funchal Old Town and centre: Best for walking to restaurants, with small guesthouses and apartments. It can be noisy on weekends.
Lido and the hotel zone: Mostly larger hotels with sea pools and promenade access. Good for comfort, less good for atmosphere.
Calheta and the southwest: Calmer, sunnier, and good for a car-based trip.
Santana, São Vicente or Porto Moniz: Pick the north if hiking is your priority. You will need a car and a warm jacket.
As a rough guide, budget guesthouses start at €50-70 a night, mid-range hotels cost €90-160, and upscale places go higher. Book early in July, August and at New Year.
What to eat and where
- Espetada: Beef cubes grilled on a bay laurel skewer, often hung above the table. Order it where locals do, away from the tourist-heavy streets.
- Espada com banana: Black scabbardfish with fried banana. It sounds strange, but it works.
- Bolo do caco: Warm flatbread with garlic butter. Good as a starter or on its own.
- Lapas: Grilled limpets with garlic and lemon. Cheap and very good.
- Poncha: A mix of sugarcane spirit, honey and lemon (or fruit juice). It is stronger than it tastes.
- Bolo de mel: A dense, spiced honey cake traditionally linked to Christmas, and found in shops year-round.
For simple meals, look for small tascas away from the main squares. Câmara de Lobos and the Funchal market area have good casual choices.
Getting from the airport and getting around
Funchal's Cristiano Ronaldo Airport (FNC) is about 20 minutes from the city. The runway is partly built on stilts, and landings can be windy, so it is normal to feel a bit nervous. Airport buses run to Funchal, and taxis to the centre typically cost around €25-35. Ride-hailing apps such as Uber and Bolt also operate.
In Funchal, you can manage on foot, local buses and taxis. For the rest of the island, rent a car if you are comfortable with steep roads, tight bends and tunnels. Take the smallest car that fits you, because parking in villages can be awkward. If you do not drive, organised tours and public buses work, though buses are slower and less flexible.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: €60-90 per person, with a guesthouse, bakery breakfasts, simple lunches and buses.
- Mid-range: €110-180, with a comfortable hotel, a rental car and restaurant dinners.
- Comfortable: €200 and up, with a high-end hotel and guided activities.
Rental car prices swing a lot by season, so book early if you travel in peak months.
FAQs
Is Madeira good for a first-time visit to Portugal?
Yes, if you like nature and hiking. If you mainly want cities, museums and big nightlife, mainland Portugal suits you better.
Do I need a car?
You can stay in Funchal without one, but to see the north, east and mountains properly, a car makes things much easier.
Is Madeira good for beaches?
Not really. There are pebble beaches, lava pools and a few sandy spots, but Porto Santo is the better choice for a proper beach day.
What should I pack?
Layers, a light rain jacket, grippy walking shoes and a head torch if you plan to hike Arieiro to Ruivo. The weather can change within an hour.
How long should I stay?
Four or five days is a good balance. Add a couple more if you want to hike a lot or visit Porto Santo.
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026