Why go to Tenerife
Most people picture a beach package, and the south does that job well. But Tenerife is also a volcanic island where you can stand among lunar rock at 2,000 metres in the morning and eat grilled fish by a black-sand shore by evening. Teide, at 3,715 metres, is the highest peak in Spain, and the island changes character every twenty minutes of driving.
It also works in winter, when much of Europe is grey. That is why the flight deals tend to be good from October to April.
What to see: ten places worth your time
- Teide National Park. Go early. The Roques de García formations and the crater plain are at their best before the tour coaches arrive. The cable car climbs to about 3,550 metres and costs around 40 euros return. Reaching the actual summit on foot needs a free permit, booked in advance online.
- Anaga Rural Park. The northeast corner is all mist, laurel forest and ridge paths. Walk from Chinamada or the Cruz del Carmen area, then drop down to Taganana and the pebbly beach at Benijo for lunch.
- San Cristóbal de La Laguna. A UNESCO-listed colonial town with a grid of low, colourful houses and a student crowd. It is cooler and often cloudier than the coast, which is part of its charm.
- Garachico. A volcanic eruption in 1706 destroyed its port. Today it is a calm northwest village with seawater pools at El Caletón and a pleasant waterfront.
- Masca. A tiny village in a steep valley in the Teno mountains. The road down is dramatic and slow. The gorge hike to the sea needs advance booking, so check current rules before you plan around it.
- Los Gigantes. Sheer cliffs on the west coast, best seen from the water on a short boat trip.
- La Orotava. Steep streets, carved wooden balconies (see the Casa de los Balcones) and a good place for a slow morning.
- Puerto de la Cruz. An old resort town with real local life. Lago Martiánez, the seawater lido designed by César Manrique, is worth an hour.
- Playa de las Teresitas. A long, golden beach near Santa Cruz, with sand brought over from the Sahara. It is the city's weekend beach, so expect families on Sundays.
- Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Underrated. The Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África is the place for cheese, fruit and fish, and the Auditorio on the seafront is the island's signature building.
Things to do
Whale and dolphin trips leave from Los Cristianos and Puerto Colón. Pilot whales live in the channel towards La Gomera all year. Choose a small boat with a modest passenger limit over the big party catamarans.
Stargazing is exceptional. Teide's clear, high air is why the island hosts major observatories, and several operators run night trips with telescopes. For families, Siam Park (water park, Costa Adeje) and Loro Parque (Puerto de la Cruz) are the big draws, and both are expensive. Windsurfers and kitesurfers head for El Médano, which gets reliable wind. In the north, hiking is the main event, and the Anaga and Teno trails are the best ones.
How many days and a suggested route
Four days is the minimum to feel the island. Seven lets you split it between north and south without rushing.
- Day 1: Arrive and settle in the south. Walk the coast, eat fish at Los Abrigos or Los Cristianos.
- Day 2: Teide at sunrise or early morning, then a slow afternoon in Vilaflor or La Orotava on the way down.
- Day 3: Northwest loop: Masca viewpoint, Garachico, Icod de los Vinos.
- Day 4: Anaga hike, then La Laguna in the evening.
- Days 5-7 (if you have them): Whale trip, a beach day in the south, Santa Cruz market, and a guachinche lunch in the north.
A hire car makes this route much easier. Buses cover the coast well but are slow for the mountains.
When to go
The island is known for spring-like temperatures all year, but microclimates matter. The south is dry and sunny, with daytime highs of about 21 to 24°C in winter and mid-to-high 20s in summer. The north is greener and cooler, and winter brings clouds and drizzle. Teide can be snowy from December to March, and nights up there are properly cold even in spring.
Summer is hot and busy with Spanish holidaymakers, so prices rise in July and August. April–June and October–November are the sweet spot. Santa Cruz's Carnival, usually in February, is one of the biggest in the world after Rio, and rooms book out months ahead.
Where to stay
- Costa Adeje and Playa de las Américas (south): The sunniest, with the most hotels, big resorts and nightlife. Costa Adeje is calmer and more upmarket, Las Américas louder and cheaper.
- Los Cristianos: A working fishing port with a decent promenade and ferries to La Gomera. A good compromise for mid-range budgets.
- El Médano: Relaxed, surf-minded, close to the south airport. Good for younger travellers.
- Puerto de la Cruz (north): More local, greener, great for hiking and cooler weather, with plenty of guesthouses.
- La Laguna or Santa Cruz: Cheaper, urban, and the best base if you want culture and local bars over resorts.
- Rural houses (casas rurales): Dotted across the north, usually the best value for couples with a car.
Budget rooms and apartments start around 40 to 60 euros a night. Mid-range hotels cost roughly 90 to 150 euros, and resorts climb from there.
What to eat and where
Start with papas arrugadas con mojo: small potatoes boiled in salty water until wrinkled, served with red or green mojo sauce. Add grilled fish (vieja, sama, or whatever is fresh) and queso asado with mojo. Gofio, toasted maize or wheat flour, appears everywhere, from soups to desserts. Goat stew (carne de cabra) and rabbit in salmorejo are the heartier, traditional dishes. Finish with a barraquito, a layered coffee with condensed milk and a splash of liqueur.
For authenticity, try a guachinche in the north, a rustic, family-run place serving home cooking and young local wine, often on a short menu. The Tacoronte-Acentejo and La Orotava valley wines are the ones to look out for. Fishing villages like Los Abrigos near the south airport are good for a seafood lunch, and Santa Cruz's market has simple stalls for a cheap bite.
From the airport and getting around
There are two airports. Tenerife South (TFS) handles most international flights and is closest to the resorts. Tenerife North (TFN) is near La Laguna and serves mostly inter-island and Spanish routes.
From the south airport, TITSA buses run to Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas and Costa Adeje, and there is a direct express to Santa Cruz. Taxis to Costa Adeje are roughly 30 to 40 euros. The island bus network (TITSA) is cheap and reliable, and a rechargeable card cuts fares further. The tram in Santa Cruz-La Laguna is handy if you stay in the north.
If you want Teide, Masca, Anaga and the northwest, rent a car. Expect roughly 25 to 50 euros a day, depending on season. Driving is fine, but mountain roads are twisty and slow, so budget more time than the map suggests.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: about 55 to 80 euros, with a hostel or basic apartment, buses, and market or menu del día meals.
- Mid-range: about 100 to 160 euros, with a hotel, a hire car and restaurant dinners.
- Comfortable: 200 euros and up, for resorts, boat trips and activities.
These are approximate and exclude flights. The cable car, boat trips and theme parks are the budget breakers.
FAQ
Is Tenerife better in the north or the south?
The south has the beaches and the sun. The north has the forests, old towns and local food. Most travellers enjoy both, so base yourself in one and make day trips.
Do I need a car?
Not for a beach holiday. For Teide, Anaga and the northwest villages, yes, or you will rely on tours and slow buses.
Can I climb Teide without a permit?
You can reach the cable car's upper station without one, but the final stretch to the summit needs a free permit booked beforehand. Book early for busy dates.
Is Tenerife good for a winter trip?
Very. The south is usually warm and sunny, though evenings cool down and the north can be cloudy. Pack a light jacket and layers for Teide.
Can I swim in the sea all year?
Yes, though the Atlantic is cool in winter, around 19 to 20°C. Many people use hotel pools or the natural pools at Garachico instead, and the sea gets noticeably warmer by late summer.
Photo: H. Zell · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026