Why go to Istanbul
Istanbul is one of the few cities where you can have breakfast in Europe, take a ferry for the price of a coffee and be in Asia before the tea gets cold. It is loud, hilly and tiring, and I love it. The Byzantine and Ottoman layers are real and everywhere, but what holds the city together is daily life: men carrying tea trays across traffic, cats asleep on mosque steps, fishermen lined up along Galata Bridge at dusk.
It is also good value for visitors from most of Europe and beyond, and flights are frequently cheap. That is why it keeps turning up in our deals.
What to see in Istanbul
Hagia Sophia
Walk in and look up. The dome still doesn't quite make sense after fifteen centuries. It works as a mosque again, and foreign visitors now pay a ticket for the upper gallery, so check the current rules. Go first thing in the morning, because queues build fast.
Blue Mosque
Right across the square, free to enter outside prayer times (dress modestly, shoulders and knees covered, and women need a headscarf). The tilework is lovely, but the exterior at sunset from the Sultanahmet park is the better moment.
Topkapı Palace
Give it half a day. The Harem section costs extra and is worth it for the tiles alone. The terraces over the Bosphorus are the real prize.
Basilica Cistern
A damp, dimly lit Byzantine water reservoir with columns rising out of shallow water. It is touristy, yes, but still atmospheric. Book a first or last slot to avoid crowds.
Süleymaniye Mosque
My favourite mosque in the city. It's calmer than the Sultanahmet ones, the courtyard has a wide view over the Golden Horn, and the tea gardens just below are a good place to sit.
Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is a maze, half of it aimed squarely at tourists. Enjoy the architecture, haggle if you really want a rug or ceramics, and leave when you tire of it. The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) is smaller and easier, good for lokum, dried fruit and a bag of Turkish tea.
Galata Tower and the Karaköy slope
The tower view is fine but the queue can be long. Often it's nicer to wander the streets around it, then drop down to Karaköy for coffee and street art.
Balat and Fener
Steep, colourful old Greek and Jewish districts on the Golden Horn. Come on a weekday morning, when they are quiet and the cafés are just opening.
Dolmabahçe Palace
The 19th-century Ottoman showpiece on the European shore. It is gilded and over the top, and you can only enter on a guided tour. Worth it if you like palaces, skippable if you are short on time.
Things to do
- Take the public ferry. From Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy, or up the Bosphorus towards Anadolu Kavağı. It costs a fraction of a tourist cruise and gives the same views.
- Cross to Kadıköy. The Asian side's market streets, bars and the Moda seafront are where many locals spend their evenings.
- Walk İstiklal Avenue. Crowded by day, but it has the old red tram, Galata side streets and, nearby, the Tünel funicular. Go late for a calmer version.
- Visit a hammam. Çemberlitaş and Cağaloğlu are historic ones. Expect a firm scrub and a price well above a local bathhouse.
- Sit with tea. Any tea garden, any hour. It is the most Istanbul thing you can do.
How many days and a suggested route
Three days covers the highlights; four is more comfortable. Five lets you get to the Asian side without rushing.
- Day 1, old city: Hagia Sophia at opening, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapı in the afternoon, sunset around Sultanahmet park.
- Day 2, markets and Golden Horn: Süleymaniye, the Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar, then Balat in the afternoon and a fish sandwich by the water.
- Day 3, Beyoğlu and Bosphorus: Galata, Karaköy, İstiklal, then a late ferry across to Kadıköy for dinner.
- Day 4: Dolmabahçe, a Bosphorus ferry trip, or simply a slow day in Moda.
When to go
April to early June and September to October are the sweet spot: mild, mostly dry, long light. July and August are hot and humid, and the old city is packed. Winter is grey and wet, with the occasional snowfall, but it is cheap, quiet and ideal for museums and hammams. Note that Ramadan changes opening hours and the evening atmosphere (iftar at sunset is a lively moment), and public holidays such as Kurban Bayramı can push up prices and crowd the ferries.
Where to stay
Sultanahmet
Closest to the big sights, quiet at night, but little local life and touristy restaurants. Good for a short first visit.
Karaköy and Galata
My pick for most travellers. Good cafés, easy tram and ferry access, and walkable to both sides of the Golden Horn. Mid-range boutique hotels dominate.
Beyoğlu and Cihangir
Nightlife and restaurants close at hand. Noisy around İstiklal, calmer in Cihangir.
Kadıköy
Best for budget and a local feel, with great food and bars, but you will spend more time on ferries to reach the main sights.
Roughly, hostels and simple guesthouses run at the low end, solid mid-range hotels in the middle, and Bosphorus-view properties at the top. Book early in spring and autumn.
What to eat and where
Start the day with a Turkish breakfast: cheeses, olives, eggs, honey and clotted cream, or a pan of menemen (eggs with tomato and peppers). Grab a simit from a street cart as a snack. At Eminönü, try a balık ekmek, a grilled fish sandwich, though the boat-side ones are more about the experience than the best fish in town.
For lunch, a lahmacun or a plate of köfte (Sultanahmet Köftecisi is a famous, no-frills spot). For something more regional, Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy serves Anatolian dishes that change daily and is one of the best meals in the city. Mantı (small dumplings with yoghurt), iskender and pide are also worth ordering.
For sweets, baklava from Karaköy Güllüoğlu is a classic, and künefe is best eaten hot. Turkish coffee comes thick, with the grounds still in the cup. Raki is the national spirit, served with meze and water.
Getting from the airport and around
Istanbul Airport (IST) is far out on the European side. The M11 metro runs to Gayrettepe, where you can transfer, and Havaist buses go to Taksim and Sultanahmet. A taxi to the centre is fast and costs a moderate amount, but agree on the meter and avoid touts in the arrivals hall.
Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) is on the Asian side. Havabus runs to Taksim and Kadıköy, and the M4 metro links to Kadıköy.
In town, buy an Istanbulkart and use it on everything: the T1 tram (Sultanahmet to Karaköy), metro, Marmaray, buses and ferries. The Kabataş–Taksim funicular and the historic Tünel save plenty of climbing. Taxis are cheap, but insist on the meter, and use apps such as BiTaksi where possible. The city is hilly, so wear proper shoes.
Rough daily budget
- Budget: about 40 to 60 euros a day, with a hostel, street food and public transport.
- Mid-range: about 90 to 150 euros, with a comfortable hotel, restaurant meals and a couple of paid attractions.
- Comfortable: 200 euros and up, with boutique hotels, guided tours and taxis.
Prices are approximate and move with the lira, so treat these as a guide only.
FAQs
Is Istanbul safe for tourists?
Generally yes, with normal big-city caution. Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas and for overcharging in tourist zones. Check your government's current travel advice before you go.
Do I need a visa?
It depends on your nationality. Many visitors enter visa-free or with an e-visa, but rules change, so check before you book.
Is tap water safe to drink?
Most people drink bottled or filtered water. It is cheap and available everywhere.
Is it OK to visit mosques?
Yes, outside prayer times. Dress modestly, take off your shoes and keep your voice down. Women should carry a scarf for the head.
Can I pay by card?
Mostly, yes, in hotels, restaurants and shops. Keep some cash for small purchases, tea gardens, markets and some taxis.
Photo: Till Niermann · CC BY 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026