Why go to Fez
Fez is the Morocco that hasn't been tidied up for visitors. Fes el-Bali, the old medina, is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. Thousands of alleys wind downhill between tanneries, copper workshops, madrasas and bakeries. Donkeys and mules still carry the goods, and you will be told "balak!" (watch out) more than once a day.
It is also the country's old intellectual capital. The Al-Qarawiyyin mosque and university dates to the ninth century. If Marrakech is the showpiece, Fez is the place where people actually work, pray and argue about football. It is tiring and sometimes confusing, but I find it far more rewarding.
What to see in Fez
- Bab Boujloud: the blue-tiled gate and the usual way into the medina. Come early, before the cafés fill, and watch the town wake up.
- Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira: the two main downhill lanes. Butchers, spice sellers, sweet stalls and sandal shops line them. Walk them once with no goal and let yourself get lost.
- Bou Inania Madrasa: a 14th-century Marinid school with carved cedar, zellige tilework and a calm courtyard. Entry is a small fee, and it is one of the few religious buildings you can properly enter.
- Al-Attarine Madrasa: smaller and, to my eye, finer. The tile patterns are the reward for a few minutes of quiet.
- Al-Qarawiyyin and the Moulay Idriss II shrine: non-Muslims can't go inside, but you can look through the open doorways from the lane. That is enough to feel their weight.
- Chouara Tannery: the stone vats of dye and pigeon-dropping baths have been in use for centuries. You view them from the terrace of a leather shop, where staff hand you a sprig of mint against the smell. Go in the morning, when the work is under way. Expect a sales pitch, and buy only if you want something.
- Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts: a restored funduq (merchant inn) next to the Nejjarine fountain. The building is as good as the collection, and the rooftop café is a decent pause.
- Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah: the "new" town, built in the 13th century. Photograph the brass doors of the Royal Palace, then walk into the old Jewish quarter with its balconies and the Jewish cemetery.
- Borj Nord and the Marinid Tombs: the hills above the medina. The ruined tombs are free and give the best view over the whole sprawl, especially in the hour before sunset.
Things to do
Hire a licensed guide for the first morning. It sounds like a tourist trap, but the medina is genuinely hard to read, and a good guide gets you through the first hours and past the touts. Agree the price before you start; a few hundred dirhams for half a day is typical.
Take a cooking class, since the cuisine here is among the best in Morocco. Several riads and Café Clock run them, usually with a market trip first. Visit the potters' workshops at Ain Nokbi, where you can watch plates being thrown, glazed and painted. Spend an afternoon in the Jnan Sbil gardens, which are cool and green when the medina isn't. In the evening, go to a traditional hammam and try the black soap and kessa glove. Local ones are cheap, tourist ones are not.
If you have extra time, day trips go to Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis, to the hillside town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, or up to the cedar forests around Azrou and Ifrane. Chefchaouen is possible but a long day.
How many days, and a suggested route
Two full days is the minimum. Three is the comfortable answer, because the medina wears you out and a slow pace helps.
Day 1: Bab Boujloud, Bou Inania, Talaa Kebira, the Nejjarine fountain, Al-Attarine. Lunch in the medina, then Chouara Tannery in the afternoon light, finishing with sunset at the Marinid Tombs.
Day 2: Fes el-Jdid, the palace doors, the Mellah and the Jewish cemetery. After lunch, visit the potters and Borj Nord, or spend the afternoon in Jnan Sbil. A hammam fits well in the evening.
Day 3: A day trip to Volubilis and Meknes, or a cooking class and a slow wander in the medina to pick up what you skipped.
When to go
Spring (March to May) and autumn (late September to November) are the best seasons. Days are warm, evenings pleasant, and the medina is walkable. Summer is hard: July and August regularly hit the high 30s, sometimes the 40s, and the narrow alleys hold the heat. If you must come then, start at dawn and rest from lunch until late afternoon.
Winter is cool and damp, with daytime temperatures around 10 to 15°C and cold nights. Many riads have no real heating, so check before booking. Ramadan moves each year. Daytime eating options shrink, though the evenings are lively. The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music usually runs in late spring or early summer, so book early if you plan around it.
Where to stay
Inside Fes el-Bali: this is where to sleep if you can. A riad (traditional courtyard house) gives you a rooftop, a courtyard and a doorway to the old city. Stay near Bab Boujloud for easier taxi access, or deeper in near Talaa Kebira for more atmosphere, though with longer walks with luggage. Budget guesthouses and hostels are available, and mid-range riads are good value. Luxury restorations cost more but are often beautiful.
Fes el-Jdid and around the Mellah: quieter, less touristed, and a bit removed from the main sights.
Ville Nouvelle: the French-built modern city, with wide avenues, chain hotels and cafés. It is cheaper and easy by car, but you lose the medina at night. It works for a night near the train station, not for a full stay.
What to eat and where
Fez is a serious food city. Start with pastilla (b'stilla), a flaky pie of pigeon or chicken with almonds, cinnamon and powdered sugar. Sweet and savoury in the same bite, it is the city's signature dish and worth ordering at least once. Rfissa (chicken over shredded msemen with lentils and fenugreek) is home cooking, and lamb tagines with prunes or quince are common. On Fridays, couscous is the thing.
For street food, look for maakouda (potato fritters), grilled kefta sandwiches, and small stalls serving snail soup. Harira, the thick tomato and chickpea soup, is the usual start to a meal and is especially good at dusk during Ramadan. Finish with mint tea and a few almond sweets.
Many of the best meals are in riads, where a set dinner from the family kitchen can beat any restaurant. For a casual lunch, Café Clock is a reliable stop, with its camel burger as a local novelty. Prices are modest almost everywhere, and the best value is a crowded lunch counter with locals standing at it.
Getting from the airport and around
Fès-Saïs Airport (FEZ) is about 15 km from the centre. A taxi is the simplest way in. Ask for the fare before you get in, or confirm it is on the meter, and ask to be dropped at Bab Boujloud or the gate closest to your riad. A city bus also runs, but taxis save time with luggage. From other cities, trains from Casablanca, Rabat, Tangier and Meknes arrive at the Ville Nouvelle station. From there, a petit taxi (the red cabs) takes you to the medina gates.
Inside Fes el-Bali, you walk. Cars can't enter, and luggage is moved by porters with handcarts if your riad is deep inside. Petit taxis are the best option for crossing between neighbourhoods. Download an offline map, but don't trust it fully, because the alleys confuse GPS. Locals will point you onward, and some will ask for a tip. Politely decline if you didn't ask.
Rough daily budget
These are rough numbers for one person, excluding flights.
- Budget: around 40 to 60 euros a day, with a hostel or simple guesthouse, street food and a few sights.
- Mid-range: around 90 to 140 euros, with a good riad, restaurant dinners and a guide for part of a day.
- Comfortable: 200 euros or more, with a high-end riad, private transfers and cooking classes.
Carry some cash in dirhams, since small shops and taxis rarely take cards.
FAQs
Is Fez safe for tourists?
Generally yes. The main issues are persistent touts, overcharging and pickpockets in crowded alleys. Keep valuables out of sight, agree prices ahead, and a polite "no, thank you" works.
Do I need a guide in Fez?
Not required, but useful on day one. A licensed guide saves hours of confusion and makes the medina more understandable.
Is the Chouara Tannery worth the visit?
Yes, if you go in the morning and accept the shop visit that comes with it. It is a rare working craft, and the smell is strong but bearable with the mint.
Can non-Muslims enter mosques in Fez?
No. You can look from doorways at Al-Qarawiyyin and Moulay Idriss II, but entry is closed. The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas are open to visitors.
How should I dress?
Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered is a safe rule for everyone. Light cotton in summer, layers in winter, and comfortable shoes for the cobbles.
Photo: This Photo was taken by Timothy A. Gonsalves. Feel free to use my photos, but p · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Guide updated 21 Oct 2026